Collar Envy
Wimpy, baby collars have taken the world by storm. The battle is already lost, as floppy, undersized collars are the current standard for button front shirts — whether casual or dressy.
That makes it all the harder for men to look sharp when suiting up or rocking a sport coat, as the collar-lapel relationship is crucial to properly framing one’s face. But perhaps their loss is your gain, as it’s that much easier to be the best dressed man in the (zoom) room!
Let’s start by examining the golden standard:
Notice how these robust collars are proportionate to the suit lapels and necktie. Better yet, notice how the points of the collar are tucked beneath the jackets lapels. The harmony created by this balance is so perfect, so aesthetically pleasing, and exudes the utmost sense of fastidiousness.
Alternatively, when there is an imbalance of proportions caused by an anemic collar, an other-wise debonaire appearance is largely stripped of its elegance.
The gap between the shirts collar points and the jackets lapels are a visual frustration — like an itch that can’t be scratched or an ornament that’s vexingly askew.
An untrained eye won’t be able to identify the issue, but the subconscious mind still interprets this shortcoming as less polished than the aforementioned golden standard.
The need for a strong collar is most pressing when one wears a tie with his jacket, as a collars dimensions are most pronounced when buttoned.
A shirt worn with the top button unfastened may reach the jackets lapels even with a modest collar. But when it doesn’t — whether that’s because the collar lacks depth or it has a shallow spread — this imbalance detracts from the look once more.
Again, this disparity is less pronounced than when a necktie is in play, but collar points that intersect with a jackets lapels will always look tidier than ones that don’t.
For that reason, it behooves the man who frequently wears a sport coat or suit to pay attention to the collars of his shirts! Selecting collars that have the necessary depth and spread to fit beneath a jacket lapels imbue a man with that much more gravitas.
Even when wearing a shirt sans jacket, there is an argument to be made for the superiority of a strong collar!
In the examples above, the topmost photo showcases the benefits of a hearty collar while the picture below demonstrates the pitfalls of a stingy one. The stronger collar makes a flattering frame around the wearer’s jaw. Meanwhile the smaller collar makes the wearer’s face seem disproportionately large and bulbous. And even on its own, with no comparison to the wearer’s face, a heartier collar looks more lively and dignified.
Because strong collars aren’t the norm, it can feel like a bit of a plunge when choosing to wear one. Yet once you’re past the unfamiliarity, you’ll find that this small detail makes a big difference in the quality of your self-presentation.
No collar envy for you!
